Major feats are not without hurdles, of course, as limitations in time, resources, steep learning curves and stakeholder pushback all pose as challenges in the pursuit of demonstrating newness. “Those who know me know I’m not a fan of public speaking. The mental and emotional blocks, which stem from self-doubt and a fear of failure, require proactive efforts for me to overcome. Having spoken alongside industry leaders that I admire and respect marked a big milestone for myself,” Goh shares. As passion became work for sustaining a living, Israfil reminds himself stay hungry and not fall into complacency. “The art market has been bad lately, and it’s easy to become sidetracked as freelancers. Sometimes, I catch myself wondering if all I do will be worth it,” he confesses. Being perceived is part and parcel of being a creative; catering to the demands of the audience without stifling one’s artistry was a major barrier to navigate. Burger Cham of Mo Sheng Ren, a creative studio that moves between photography, video direction and design, reflects on the “invisible filters” that influence creative output. “Since Malaysia is so diverse, creative decisions have to pass through many layers of consideration of the different ways our audience may interpret your work, which in turn reflects on the clients themselves. A lot of times, we end up pulling back or adjusting ideas to fit what’s considered ‘safe’. That doesn’t make it bad, but it definitely shapes how far we can push, as we tread the line of being creative and mindful.” Twenty years after founding streetwear select store Crossover, its founder, Jem, still shares a similar sentiment. “Some of the messages I resonate with and wish to speak through my designs tend to be too loud, too sensitive and likely to spark controversy, so there’s an element of finding more commercial ways to convey our message without losing meaning,” he shares.
The conservatism or shifts in demand shown by clients and consumers tell only part of a larger story. According to Goh, the uncertainties and cost-of-living crises that plague us as a society have not only driven us to shop less but also to be more mindful, purchasing only things that offer experiential and emotional value. This falls alongside the phenomenon of “enshittification”, coined by science fiction author, activist and journalist Cory Doctorow, which describes the degradation of digital platforms that move from being user-centric to profit-maximising, business-focused platforms. The online shopping experience is reduced into an onslaught of flash deals and pleas to “buy, buy, buy”, and has made it more difficult for creators to imbue their work with meaningful value, especially when the threshold has been exponentially inflated. “You’ll notice that brands have been pushing for more single product launches lately as a way to preserve their craft,” Shaofen explains. Creating a focus is also what Jem enlists at Crossover, as he differentiates through community building. “Our consumers are people who religiously follow the brands we carry. Beyond products, they support the ideologies and principles these labels carry, leading consumption behaviours that transcend price points and the need for fast, disposable fashion,” Jem shares.
Despite the hurdles, the dreams of starting a fashion brand persist for some. Rather than ignoring one’s calling, Shaofen recommends finding that balance between business and creativity. “Don’t let your pride get in the way of expanding your career. There may be opportunities that may not seem fitting at the time, but don’t hesitate to give them a try,” she offers. Quoting Palestinian author Ghassan Kanafani, “You have something in this world, so stand for it,” Jem wants you to know yourself and have a clear understanding of your direction in this arduous journey, which requires a heavy dose of perseverance and conviction to thrive. Rather than relying solely on social media performance and e-commerce data to make business decisions, he also sees a need to look beyond the numbers and go with his heart. “Intuition and observation play a big part in explaining market shifts. These emotional datapoints, paired with digital findings, will give a comprehensive view of where the business is headed.”
At WGSN, Goh and her team discuss the importance of fostering connection, continuity, and contentment with consumers. “How does a brand shift from a relatively transactional mindset to a relational one? Can brands facilitate connections within a loyal customer community, inviting them to become co-creators and stakeholders? How do we shift from short- to long-term relationships in a culture of disposability? Are we able to foster contentment through mindful consumption — perhaps adding friction to the purchase journey to slow down their desire for excess?”
We feel constantly depleted of fulfilment because capitalism continually raises the bar for what a feeling of contentment should look like, while we experience the rising costs — emotional, monetary, labour — of just about everything. Like donkeys trotting behind a dangling carrot, we are on a constant pursuit of a new emotional high. With subjects portrayed in often languid states, almost as if the viewer only ever catches a glimpse, without making their own presence known, Israfil and his work acknowledge the moments of stillness witnessed in solitude — a calm acceptance of the self when no one is there to watch or judge. Yearning for more yet constantly faced with the risk of being negatively perceived, the idea was never to negate community in search of total acceptance, but perhaps to signal a form of kinship as we navigate a community. As a father of a young family, Cham is still trying to find the balance. “I start my work after my family goes to bed so I can focus. My wife calls me the ‘afternoon dad’ since that’s when I wake up. It’s not the perfect system, but it’s a routine that works for us at the moment.”
Given the nature of the industry, can one look at what they do as merely a job, or does it require more than just hard skills and a sense of accountability to create something that matters? “There are jobs that pay the bills, then there are projects where I get to actually express something: an idea, a feeling, or a point of view,” Cham shares. Although not every project needs to be deep or meaningful, he always finds gratitude in those that allow him to express himself. While Jem has had the opportunity to meet and connect with cultures beyond his own, Faezah has been able to make meaning from her own cultural background and community. “It’s a tough industry, and I think it’s even tougher when you can’t find meaning in the work.” Shaofen’s interest in arts and fashion may have grown into her career, but it took years of work before she achieved a measure of stability in it. “All of that only worked because I found purpose in each project by identifying an objective I wanted to achieve,” Shaofen adds. Fuelled by passion and an ability to create on one’s own terms is “the biggest luxury you can have as a creative and brand owner,” she puts it — most stay because it is what they do best. “When I got into art school, I didn’t have a plan B. The only plan was and is to be an artist and make a living out of it,” Israfil shares. For Faezah, her work is a tool for introspection and resonance; for Goh, it is her way to connect the dots between past, present and future.
What does 2026 hold? “The dominance of technology, especially artificial intelligence, has triggered a growing backlash, hence fuelling what I call the ‘Renaissance of Real’ movement,” explains Goh, who sees perhaps a pendulum swing towards championing human- centric experiences. “Consumers increasingly seek out handcrafted products, meaningful in-person experiences and analogue hobbies as a way to reconnect with the tangible, and counteract digital fatigue.”
As artificial intelligence becomes more capable of replicating human skills, she sees a real opportunity for brands to truly differentiate themselves by leveraging their artisanal heritage through genuine craftsmanship. To counter the state of ennui that currently plagues us, we may expect an emergence of Rational Optimism — a belief that acknowledges the possibility of positive change, while considering the challenges and setbacks. “In other words, optimism is a logical, evidence-based response to negativity,” she shares. While many might see the industry as a bubble that feels detached from reality, given how tethered it is to our own humanity, perhaps it might be more of a crystal ball that prophesies where we are meant to be in the future, or in due time. Perhaps.
